You can see the Kreg Jig holes and how I’ve attached the bottom board to the sides. In the photo above, I’ve assembled the carrying case and used 3″ by 21 3/4″ plywood as rails to complete the box. I simply used the pocket-hole jig to make 3 holes and then used the screws that came with my Kreg Jig to join the boards. With the bottom board and side boards cut out, I decided to use the Kreg Jig to attach the bottom board to the two side boards. I recommend using a table saw or miter saw to get nice square cuts, but use whatever saw you have at your disposal. The reason I mention this is because the lumber you purchase could have slightly different dimensions than mine. Take those measures (length X width) and adjust mine if needed. Part 2 – Making the Carrying Case Step 1 – Cut the Boards to Dimensionsīefore you use my dimensions, I highly recommend that you arrange YOUR blocks as they would fit in the box. I would allow the Danish oil a few days to fully dry, but the paint will dry faster. For the stain, she used a Danish Oil (medium walnut) and regular light-blue paint thinned with water to make it a stain. It’s a total of 48 blocks, so 16 stained, 16 light blue and 16 plain. My daughter decided she wanted some of the blocks to be stained and some to have a light blue color and some just plain wood. This will also improve the performance of the game by making it a little easier to pull the blocks out. 120 and 200 grit are sufficient for this step. We used an orbital sander to go over each block to smooth them out and get rid of potential splinters. Honestly, this was the most time-consuming part of the whole project. If you’re off by 1/8 of an inch or so, it probably won’t be that noticeable. Just use whatever saw you have to get a nice square cut and try to make the length of each block nearly the same. If you don’t have a chop saw, no worries. Once we knew the length of the block, we used a stop block to cut all the blocks an identical length.
Photo 3 is the heart of the operation, if you have a miter saw or chop saw. So make adjustments to your block length accordingly since 2 X 3 dimensions may vary slightly from store to store. The length of each block 7 5/8″ comes from the measurement we took by putting 3 of the 2 X 3’s side by side (see photo 4). In the store, these boards are labeled 2 X 3 X 8, but actually they are 1.5″ by 2.5″ by 8ft.
In the photos 1 & 2 above, you see my daughter cutting out the blocks for the Jenga-like yard game. Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4 Step 1 – Cut the Blocks I used a pocket-hole jig (Kreg Jig) to attach bottom board to the side boards, so I used the wood screws (6 total) that came with the Kreg Jig. And 6 smaller screws are needed for the handles and bottle opener. You will need at least 8 – #8, 1″ wood screws for assembling the rails. You can make the whole carrying case with the plywood. You can probably get by with 1/4 or 1/2 sheet of plywood.
#Diy jumbo jenga full
I used 3/4 inch plywood, but you won’t need a full sheet. Note that the actual measurement of these boards are 1.5″ X 2.5″ but they are called 2 X 3 in the store. I believe these are select pine so they have fewer knots. lumber and you’ll need 4 of those boards for the blocks alone. Your home improvement store should carry 2″ X 3″ X 8 ft. We also added handles and a bottle opener. To make it look nice, my daughter did a little painting and staining. Just cut 48 blocks of wood and build a simple box to hold them. Overall, the giant jenga-like yard game is a fairly easy project. I’m so proud of her and her artistic side and willingness to learn something new. Just to be upfront, my daughter helped me on this project and did 98% of the project.
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